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La Morada isn’t known for tacos; people trek to the Oaxacan restaurant in Mott Haven mainly for its rich and complex moles and other regional specialties. But the tacos deserve higher praise, mainly because of how beautifully simple they are in comparison to everything else on the menu. Two soft corn tortillas get stacked with options like chicken, skirt steak, carnitas, al pastor, chorizo, and bistec asado. The move is to go with the spicy pork, which is juicy and bursting with chile. Don’t forget to layer on a generous serving of the smoky, spicy, house-made chipotle sauce.

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